Post by RAiNfiRE on Feb 5, 2009 22:32:45 GMT -5
Here are some battle techniques. This is very useful for mentors trying to teach young apprentices.
Back kick: Explosive suprise move to catch opponent behind. Judge oppenent's distance from you carefully; then last out with your back legs, taking your weight on your front paws.
Belly rake: A fight-stopper. Slice with unsheathed claws across soft flesh of opponent's belly. If you're pinned down, the belly rake quickly puts you back in control.
Bucking Kick: When an enemy is pouncing at you, turn around and lean on your front paws. Kick your back legs up, and kick back as the enemy crashes into your blow. This is a very hard technique and is recommended that apprentices learn other fighting moves before this one. Timing is essential.
Front paw blow: Frontal attack. Bring your front paw down hard on your opponent's head. Claws sheathed.
Front paw strike: Frontal attack.Slice downward with your front paw at the body or face of your opponent. Claws unsheathed.
Killing bite: A death blow to the back of the neck. Quick and silent and sometimes considered dishonorable. Used only as a last resort.
Leap-and-hold: Ideal for a small cat facing a large opponent. Spring onto opponent's back and grip with unsheathed claws. Now you are beyond the range of your opponent's paws and in position to inflict severe body wounds. A group of apprentices can defeat a large and dangerous warrior in this way. Watch out for the drop-and-roll countermove, and try to jump free before you get squashed.
Partner Fighting: Warriors who have trained and fought togethor will often instinctively fall into a paired defensive position, each protecting the other's back while fending off an opponent on either side. Slashing, clawing, and leaping togethor, battle pairs can be a whirlwind of danger for attackers.
Play dead: Effective in a tight situation, such as when you are pinned. Stop struggiling and go limp. When your opponent relaxes his grip, thinking you are defeated, push yourself up explosively. This will throw off an unwary opponenet and put you in an attacking position.
Scruff shake: Secure a strong teeth grip in the scruff of your opponent's neck; then shake violently until he or she is too rattled to fight back. Most effective agaisnt rats, which are small enough to throw. A strong throw will stun or kill them.
Teeth grip: Target your opponent's extremities---the legs, tail, scruff, or ears---and sink in your teeth and hold. This move is similar to the leadp-and-hold except your claws remain free to fight.
Upright lock: Final, crushing move on already weakened opponent. Rear up on back legs and bring full weight down on opponenet. If opponent does same, wrestle and flip him under you. This move makes you vulnerable to the belly rake, so requires great strength and speed.
Back kick: Explosive suprise move to catch opponent behind. Judge oppenent's distance from you carefully; then last out with your back legs, taking your weight on your front paws.
Belly rake: A fight-stopper. Slice with unsheathed claws across soft flesh of opponent's belly. If you're pinned down, the belly rake quickly puts you back in control.
Bucking Kick: When an enemy is pouncing at you, turn around and lean on your front paws. Kick your back legs up, and kick back as the enemy crashes into your blow. This is a very hard technique and is recommended that apprentices learn other fighting moves before this one. Timing is essential.
Front paw blow: Frontal attack. Bring your front paw down hard on your opponent's head. Claws sheathed.
Front paw strike: Frontal attack.Slice downward with your front paw at the body or face of your opponent. Claws unsheathed.
Killing bite: A death blow to the back of the neck. Quick and silent and sometimes considered dishonorable. Used only as a last resort.
Leap-and-hold: Ideal for a small cat facing a large opponent. Spring onto opponent's back and grip with unsheathed claws. Now you are beyond the range of your opponent's paws and in position to inflict severe body wounds. A group of apprentices can defeat a large and dangerous warrior in this way. Watch out for the drop-and-roll countermove, and try to jump free before you get squashed.
Partner Fighting: Warriors who have trained and fought togethor will often instinctively fall into a paired defensive position, each protecting the other's back while fending off an opponent on either side. Slashing, clawing, and leaping togethor, battle pairs can be a whirlwind of danger for attackers.
Play dead: Effective in a tight situation, such as when you are pinned. Stop struggiling and go limp. When your opponent relaxes his grip, thinking you are defeated, push yourself up explosively. This will throw off an unwary opponenet and put you in an attacking position.
Scruff shake: Secure a strong teeth grip in the scruff of your opponent's neck; then shake violently until he or she is too rattled to fight back. Most effective agaisnt rats, which are small enough to throw. A strong throw will stun or kill them.
Teeth grip: Target your opponent's extremities---the legs, tail, scruff, or ears---and sink in your teeth and hold. This move is similar to the leadp-and-hold except your claws remain free to fight.
Upright lock: Final, crushing move on already weakened opponent. Rear up on back legs and bring full weight down on opponenet. If opponent does same, wrestle and flip him under you. This move makes you vulnerable to the belly rake, so requires great strength and speed.